Delaware Dines Out: Domaine Hudson
By Lucia Blackwell
A visit to Domaine Hudson in Wilmington for a Delaware Dines Out dinner Monday was an elegant but easy way to kick off the weeklong dining fest (sponsored by The News Journal).
The street parking in front of this little gem of a restaurant on Washington Street is free after 5 p.m., and there's free parking available in the Christiana Care Clinic lot at Washington and 14th streets, just steps from Domaine Hudson.
Easy.
We were perhaps the first patrons of the night (at 6 p.m.) and were seated at one of the banquette tables. The dining space is small and cozy, with lots of nooks and corners, so we didn't feel lost in the space despite the early hour and empty tables.
Other diners quickly began arriving, however, adding a pleasant buzz of quiet conversation to the room.
Our Delaware Dines Out menus arrived fresh off the printer – the special menu is on the back of the regular menu. Our server was quick to make sure we knew where all of our options were, including the well-considered wine list.
My dining companion looked doubtful as he perused the imaginative menu. (He'd be happy with a burger and good fries three times a week.)
"What's gnudi?" he asked.
"Sort of a naked ravioli. You'll love it."
He sighed, but was up for the challenge.
And, for the record, by the end of the night, he was quite literally a member of the Clean Plate Club.
His DDO dinner started with sweet summer corn bisque. The creamy soup made the most of the last of one of summer's best flavors. A touch of vanilla crème fraiche added depth when swirled into the soup. Bits of smoked ham edged the flavors toward autumn. A swipe with a piece of bread ensured that not a drop went to waste.
Clean plate No. 1
Speaking of bread, don't skip the bread basket. The crusty slices we had were made even more divine by the little pot of butter with a cherry balsamic reduction. True confession: We tore into a second basket.
My starter was chosen in part for the name: chicken fried quail. Rustic meets fancy-pants. The delicate little bird was served with charred Brussels sprout leaves, buttermilk drizzle and a fennel seed agrodolce. I started out with knife and fork, but couldn't resist picking up the leg to nibble off the last bits of tender meat and crispy coating.
I moved from one bird to another, with a second course of duck leg confit with a pomegranate glaze, heirloom tomato, charred candy onions and a hit of basil. The skin was beautifully crispy (though in some spots it might have benefited from a slight trim) and the meat addictively rich. Again, a nice transition from summer (luscious end-of-season tomatoes) to fall.
I asked our server for a wine suggestion for the duck. After first asking if I enjoyed a blend, she recommended a grenache/syrah/mourvèdre blend from the Rhone Valley. Enough fruit to complement the pomegranate glaze (perhaps a hint of pomegranate along with the cherry in the wine?) with enough tannins to hang with the rich meat. Lovely.
Across the table, the ricotta gnudi were disappearing so quickly I had to move fast to get a taste. Light as air. Redolent with tarragon. Nice balance of sweet figs and spicy almond-red chili crumble. Braised chanterelle mushrooms added just the right heft.
Clean plate No. 2.
Too full for dessert? Never. Especially when dessert is this delicious. One bite of the flourless chocolate cake sent my head spinning into chocolate bliss. More like fudge than cake, the decadent squares were set off by a dollop of whipped cream, slightly salty dulce de leche, and the crunch of a cocoa nib and mixed nut granola. I stole a second bite. Heaven.
Clean plate No. 3.
I was sure my own dessert would pale in comparison. I was wrong. Plum and blueberry crisp is a good thing. And this one is a delight – but what sends it over the top is the lemon verbena ice cream perched on top. A match made in – you guessed it – heaven.
Worth it? Definitely. Especially when you consider that the $30 DDO menu is quite similar to Domaine Hudson's regular $44 prix-fixe three-course dinner.
So heaven, for less.
Easy.
EDITOR'S NOTE: Delaware Dines Out, a News Journal sponsored Restaurant Week, is off and running. This week, staffers are experiencing some of the 27 participating restaurants and writing about their experiences.
Participating restaurants are offering $30 three-course meals, Sept. 22 to Sept. 28, and some also are serving $15 two-course lunches. Keep checking back to Second Helpings this week for more reviews